Torrone’s Box

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“Go ahead,” he said with a thick Italian accent and a smile.  “Take it!”

I looked first at the small box he was waving in his hand, and then up at my mother, searching for her disapproval. Somewhat to my chagrin, she nodded with enthusiasm to indicate that yes,  I could take candy from a stranger — even this stranger with dark bushy eyebrows wearing a bloodied butcher’s apron.  At least he was still behind the counter.

I put my palm out, and there he placed the dainty, pretty box — such an unbutcheresque item to be handing out to small children.  Then I looked more closely, and it started to make more sense: the name Ferrante Gonzaga was emblazoned above and below the portrait of a bearded man (who, at the time, I had thought was the butcher himself; turns out, Gonzaga was a mercenary captain during the Renaissance).  The flip side portrayed a statue of a triumphant Gonzaga gripping a spear while standing over his nemesis, Envy. CHRISTMAS 2013 003_crop Strange box.  Little swirls, flourishes, and embellishments in red, blue, and black, as well as the flavor — vaniglia written on the top flap, “vanilla,” on the bottom — contrasted with the military vibe of the pictures.  La Florentine Almond Nougat Candy, it said on one side; I would henceforth know it as torrone.

I paused as I had a Pandora moment: voices in my head said, “Don’t open it!” I half expected envy, crime, hate and disease to fly out in so doing.  But hope springs eternal, so I unfastened the flap and, well, hoped for the best.

I pulled out a little rectangle, neatly wrapped in soft, bendy foil, which contained an off-white, bland-looking smaller rectangle with nuts.  I looked at my mom and wanted to give it back — but in the end, took a bite.  And rather than the evils of the world springing forth, the box released a blissful dance for the senses in the form of torrone: sweet honey, crunchy nuts, chewy nougat, a whiff and the flavor of comforting vanilla.  It was a delicious treat — even if the box was a little ominous — and a treat that my brother and I would look forward to each time we returned to La Romanina delicatessen in Menlo Park and found Tony behind the counter.  He always made sure we left with our little box (as well as a slice of head cheese, but that’s another story for another day).

Many years between young adulthood and young motherhood passed before I would eat torrone again. When I open one today, new things fly out of the box: those joyous memories of trips to La Romanina and the Italian sandwich dinners that would result from such trips; visits to Lucca Deli on Chestnut Street in San Francisco’s Marina district, which was a few blocks away from my father’s childhood home.  All it takes is a quick search on the internet to find people gushing with stories and memories linking toronne  to holidays and family celebrations of long ago with Italian relatives.  This little box  has a power that transports.

Like everything else, torrone can be purchased online.  But I feel so fortunate to have found them in abundance in an Italian food and wine shop in Dallas – and fortunate to have found the shop in general.  Jimmy’s is a true microcosm of a Little Italy.   Product after glorious product pack the shelves: pastas, risotto, house made (and celebrated) sausage and meatballs, wine, pickled and marinated vegetables, San Marzano tomatoes, coffee, Baci chocolates, La Florentine and Ferrara torrone, and countless other Italian products.  To be surrounded solely by such products is food for the soul and adds an Italian flavor to the shopping experience.  The authentic ingredients allow you to concoct splendidly simple Italian dishes, while delicious  pre-made filled pastas, sausages, meatballs, and desserts can transport you to your own Little Italy the moment you return home.

In addition, Jimmy’s provides me – and numerous others! – with a space in which we can nostalgically return to time spent with Italian relatives, as we are surrounded by the products of those times, the flavors of our childhood.   What joy to find such a place in a town with no Little Italy to call its own.

Now my children are having their own childhood experience with Torrone: they love finding the 18-count La Florentine box in Jimmy’s tucked on the dark shelf near the register; they love choosing which flavor (lemon, orange, or vanilla) they will have that day; but most of all, they love tasting the pure sweet deliciousness.  How exciting that one of these days, they will taste the memories too.

Che gioia!

The Joy of Making Pasta

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We walked into the DeLucca’s house and proceeded straight to the kitchen – past the dim entryway, past the crackling fire in the living room, past the dining room table awaiting us.  Right into the belly of the festivities, into a belly full of snakes – hanger after hanger of snakes dangling, waving in the breeze, preparing for their fate in our own bellies.

Yes, we were in a room full of homemade pasta: beautiful angel hair, the first I would ever eat.  And it was everywhere in our friends’ kitchen: suspended from cabinet handles and drawers, draped over the backs of chairs, dangling from light fixtures.  What a joyous, unruly sight!  Such festive chaos.  Mrs. DeLucca was churning out ever more (much like Strega Nonna’s magic pasta pot going haywire), while her children tamed the noodle-snakes on hangers around the room.  They would eventually fill three large platters with celestial capellini con pesto that melted in our mouths.

Che gioia a little memory like that brings.  The whole process occurring in that Italian-American kitchen was a source of joy for the creators and observers alike, and it is a source of glee each time I try to recreate it with my sons (who conveniently love snakes AND pasta).

But, sadly, making pasta these days has been generally relegated to ripping open a bag or box, dumping it in boiling water, and jamming the ends down into submission.  An act of violence, I say – and there’s certainly no gioia in that.

Although it is wonderful that packaged pasta allows the most rushed of us to make a good meal in a flash, there IS decidedly more gioia in making it the way Aunt Irene did: squishing together a raw egg and flour with the hands,

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feeling the ooze between the fingers,

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and then watching the transformation of goop to dough.

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Che gioia in rolling it out on a floured bread board and then churning it through the pasta maker –

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like caterpillar to butterfly.

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And what joy in finding whatever you have to suspend the pasta from,

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and then finding yourself amidst dancing pasta.  Then there’s that final moment you gingerly place the noodles in a bath of rolling water as you watch your creation gracefully immerse itself – no forced submersion necessary.

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There is such joy in this present act of creation, in the process of transforming simple ingredients into simple edible masterpieces.

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Yes, it takes a little more time than plopping the contents of a bag into water.  But participating in such an act of creation actually can slow time down, as you savor each joyous moment of watching the metamorphosis unfold before your eyes and in your hands.  It helps you connect more to the present, your food, and the people around you.

CHE GIOIA!

Simple Pasta Recipe (serves 2)

  • 2 cups of flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3-4  tablespoons of water and/or olive oil as necessary

Put flour and salt on a board or in a bowl and make a well in the middle.

Crack eggs into the well and gently beat the egg in its flour “bowl.”

Knead the dough with your finger tips until a  more substantial dough forms, adding 3 to 4 tablespoons of water if necessary (may use olive oil in place of some water as well).  Continue kneading – but this time with the palms of your hands – for 4 minutes.  Add flour to board to prevent sticking, if necessary.

Wrap in plastic and set aside 20 minutes.

Feed through pasta machine or roll out and cut noodles to desired size with a knife.

Hang, cook (time depends on noodle size), and…buon appetito!